Ride Hokkaido

I first went to Hokkaido in the winter of 2023, and it was as amazing as everyone says. I want to thank our hosts for their hospitality and expertise—a life-changing experience I am stoked to share with you all.

My friends from Hokkaido Expeditions invited me on this trip; it was a stars-aligning scenario, so I went as a treat for myself (I really hope my wife doesn’t read this). I had just had my first kid, and another on the way (Irish twin style), so I invited my mother-in-law from Venezuela and quietly dipped on Cathay Pacific’s direct flight above the North Pole to New Chitose in Sapporo.

My absolute homie local Legend Mako Tekashi greeted us with big smiles at the airport, then we headed to Otaru. I met Mako through a mutual friend, and we have had a few adventures over our time in the states, just good vibes and fun times. He’s a skiing mentor, so it was really nice to finally be in the field with him under these excellent circumstances on his home turf.

These guys have been doing this for a couple of years, so after a team intro and general briefing, we were quickly ushered to nightcaps at the Nord Otaru, where we were staying.

Overlooking the Otaru canals in a snow globe, totally unaware what time it was- middle of the night there…sometime else in my equilibrium, but just totally stoked because I’m in Japan, I have a nice highball cocktail, and it’s ripping snow.

I only slept a few hours; I was so stoked. I got up way past seven, when breakfast and coffee were, so I walked around and found a Kombini (Lawson’s, I think). I love waking up in a place after arriving late at night because it hits very different during the day.

A large snow removal process going down, a small coupe ripping 2-wheel drive, spinning unintentional donuts through the Lawson’s parking lot, Robot coffee, strange treats…I didn’t see anyone working at Lawson until they popped out when I started looking lost to pay.

We met at 7 AM for a Breakfast spread. Mako-san met us with bells on and showed us the way. A little bit of everything; that was the point. I tried that route; I need to work on my tolerance to fermented foods, but I stuck to the pancakes and soup...It’s an experience.

We loaded up the van and headed up to 711 and Kokusai for the day. After a quick beacon and probe briefing and practice, we were on our way.

Zumi met us, an aspiring mountain guide and ripping skier. We took the lift up and warmed up a few laps in bounds; it was a killer little dump the night before. Nobody was there, and we got a nice warm-up.

That afternoon, we traversed a few chutes with Mako and Zumi and scored some untouched goodness. A very good pack, punching every bit of 30 degrees and leaning into some of the best turns I have had in a long time. Big arching turns in a 30-meter-wide arrowhead straight to trench town. Exuberance.

Now I must confess, I was not in send mode during this time. Part of what made everything so special was how damn hard it was. My fat ass was just hit hard by parenting, and I was the heaviest I have ever been. I must also confess I had an archaic, really heavy ski setup. And with all the excuses in the world, I actually got my ass kicked on our first tour and had to be helped a bit, but Zumi (thanks, Zumi), and yeah, it was embarrassing but inspiring at the same time. I made it. And the next lap was just as excellent as the first.

We had ramen at the lodge, smiles and all, then headed back toward Otaru, stopping just before the city for some Onsen time.

My first onsen experience really blew my mind. Another write-up about how onsen has changed my life. Still, this particular time was fantastic; I have always loved hot tubs. Still, I didn’t fully understand the benefits of contrast therapy or the ancient traditions (not just among the Japanese), which I found fascinating, and one of those impactful practices you can bring home.

I got back to my hotel and was so excited that I sent my wife an unsolicited picture that day (Pro move). After realizing the kids were still up, I got a sarcastically excellent response and went to dinner.

Our first dinner experience was out of this world. Mako-san Night guided us through the streets of Otaru to a hole-in-the-wall that has served tapas-style meals for about a century.

I am not a food critic, but man - the Michelin guides have missed this place. Out-of-this-world pork chops on a coal fire that’s been burning consistently for 90 years. Smoked oysters and scallops, and a bunch of things I had no idea what they were but were delicious. A highball and some tea, and I was dozing off on the van ride home. I slept like a baby lamb on a wool farm - not a care in the world.

I woke up early again the next day, but the hotel had coffee ready for me, so I was sorted, called the wife and kids while I got kitted up, and was fully frothing.

We got up and after it at Kiroro the next day, and it was a remarkable time. The group was slow and wanted to take their time. Still, Mako-san and I went off and took a few laps on the resort - It was nice to catch up just dude to dude for a lift ride - so often, as guides, we find ourselves focused on every minute of the trip, as it should be, so it is nice to find some solace with a homie and be able to appreciate time with said homie- for sure a perk of the job.

Anyways, it was a ripper day - we did 4 laps after that off the back in some wild zone Mako-san showed us.

EVERY LAP WE NEEDED A SNORKEL.

I skied at Crested Butte in college, arguably one of the best mountains terrain-wise in the lower 48. I remember one particularly snowy morning in 2008 I scored with my two college roommates: the Phoenix and Spellbound link with the rope freshly dropped.

It was pure joy, bounding through this feathery mass of frozen air. I’d never felt anything like it growing up on the scrappy east coast.

I’d imagine it’s like taking heroin for the first time—it was pure addiction. And then, like in the cruel world of a junkie, it was tracked out the next run.

I won’t tell you where Mako took us, but trust me—we scored. My smile was ear to ear.

On one skin up, I found myself alone. A few crew ahead, a few crew behind, silence.

I looked around in wonder and remembered thinking, dude, you are scoring Japan.

I have been thinking about this day since watching TGR films highlighting the awesomeness of Japan’s winter, and I am here witnessing the snow monster.

It has become a middle-aged core memory.

I remember being utterly gassed after our last lap. Like, so very tired in the onsen and at dinner. I forget exactly what we did for dinner that night, but it was awesome.

What I do remember is leaving and walking down Susukino streets, and Mako turns to two other guests and me and asks if we wanted another drink. I don’t know about you, but I am old school, and when a man like Mako-san invites you to anything…you join. So I did, and at first it was super chill. We went to a bar, chatted, and hung out. Then, all of a sudden, like a rum-filled tropical breeze, some salarymen and women walked in, and the vibe immediately changed.

What started as a highball or two turned into full music-video fun times in my memory banks. My karaoke song is always Mustang Sally, and the place went fucking ablaze over my Boston Irish tenor.

Anyways - at that point, with the kids and everything, I have not drunk much, and I got spanked. It was fun and totally worth it; it was hours of fun, actually, and the videos are hilarious, but it certainly didn’t set me up for success the next day in the mountains.

And that’s where I’ll leave you for now: spinning in my hotel room, way too late, barely asleep, but with a massive grin on my face as I brace for an early departure to our next destination—Asahikawa. Turns out, trading late-night parenting duties for salaryman karaoke wasn’t the ideal prep for mountain day three, but I wouldn’t trade the madness for anything.

What’s the wildest cultural side quest you’ve ever stumbled into while traveling for a ski trip? Drop your stories in the comments below!

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This content is for informational and educational purposes only and reflects my personal opinions and experience. I am not a licensed financial advisor, tax advisor, or attorney. Readers should conduct their own due diligence and consult qualified professionals before making any investment decisions.